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Cooking Wild-Style, With Susan Kane. The Finest Recipes for Fish, Fowl and Game. Johnson Gorman Publishers. $29.95 Cdn. Website: www.jgbooks.com

Those of us who fly fish are proud practitioners of catch and release. For many, killing a fish is a rarity. But there are times and places where taking home a brace is justifiable. In a lake or river where the fish are stocked, or where there is light fishing pressure, or where the productivity is high, there’s nothing wrong with killing a fish or two.

On Canada’s West Coast, where commercial fishermen are killing millions of salmon a year, it is fair game to kill a few fish (although you should always let the big ones go.)

If you are going to kill a salmon or a noble trout - or shoot a grouse during a mid-day break from salmon fishing - you owe it to yourself and to your prey, to prepare it properly.

Or, as Susan Kane puts it: “Hunting and fishing are expensive pastimes. When you get the meat to the kitchen, do not economize. Use the freshest and finest ingredients, and the meal will be an honor to the animal, the hunter and the chef!”

A few years ago, fishing the fall run of steelhead on the Thompson River, we were lucky enough to catch some very big steelhead and some beautiful trout. The steelhead were handled with immense care and released with reverence. The trout, which ran to 5 lbs., were just too beautiful to kill. But luckily for us, one of the anglers had put aside his rod for the day, returning with a bag full of chukkers, shot in the slots and gullies above the river. That night we drank wine, watched the game birds cook, then dined like royalty. Knowing how to cook wild game is an art, and fortunately for us the hunter knew how to do honour to his prey.

In Cooking Wild-Style, Susan Kane explains how to prepare everything from Elk spaghetti sauce, to roast wild turkey, to purple plum duck and bass fillets with citrus sauce.

If you’re going to kill it, cook it right.


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