There are probably only a few waters that I can honestly say I love, but the St. Mary River in south eastern British Columbia is certainly one of them. I clearly remember the first time I fished the St. Mary. It was a warm day in late June, and my fishing experience at the time was limited to lakes and small creeks. The few patterns in my fly box showed that I really knew little about anything other than dry-flies.

I was with my good friend, Brian Oke, and that day on the St. Mary was the first time I caught a large trout in moving water. We hiked up the river looking for a spot where we might get a chance at dropping a fly without having to cast too far. A large logjam was set in the middle of the river, and the water flowed around and through the logs to create a beautiful pool.

I can still picture us sitting on a log and looking at the deep blue pool, unsure of where to start. Brian and I were both big fans of the Royal Coachman at the time; it sure looked pretty and after all, that’s what the trout like, right? Brian jerked the tip of his rod and a little bit of line came out, like magic at the time. His fly floated nicely and I tried to do the same.

Then it happened. A chunky cutthroat of about 18 inches rose from the bottom and took his fly. As it rolled over a few times, jealousy flooded over me. I kept working my fly as I watched him play the big cutt. Then, as he was about to land his prize, a trout darted up and snatched my Coachman. It was a rainbow, equally as large as his cutt. My prayers were answered. Those were the only two trout we caught that day but I have been back to the river hundreds of times since. That magical logjam was washed away the following year, but every spring I check the spot hoping to reunite with an old memory.

The St. Mary is a freestone stream that runs from the Purcell Mountains down into St. Mary Lake and eventually into the Kootenay River. Rivers are ever changing and the St. Mary is no exception. Runoff is usually hard on the river and I can’t count all of the changes that have happened over the years. Many times a favorite pool is completely dried up, which is great if you enjoy exploring new water. There are about 30 kilometers of fishable water on the St. Mary. Although most of the pressure is found below St. Mary Lake, the upper river is now catch and release and there is much water to explore. Most of the water above the lake is open for anyone to fish and as long as they’re comfortable with the occasional bear, the fishing and scenery will be worth the effort.

The St. Mary River road runs along the river for much of its length and while the short hike to the river should be no trouble for anyone, access along the St. Mary has become limited over the years. There are more fences and signs that sure don’t resemble a welcome mat. I guess that’s one of the things that makes the St. Mary special; there are no crowds of anglers because there is simply no way to get to much of the river. Much of the lower river is only accessible by boat, but if you can get access, the float will definitely be worth it. Many of the boat launches are privately owned and guides who operate on the river pay high fees for access. Without access to the private boat launches, anglers are advised to enter at the public access points and be prepared to hike. The river is very wadeable and the banks are open for easy walking.

The riffles and runs all hold trout. In fact, if you see a spot where you think a trout should be, you can bet at least one is there. The St. Mary grand slam is attainable every day you get on the water. Cutthroat, rainbow, bull trout and brook trout are all found throughout the river. Whether I’m guiding or fishing by myself, a rainbow will be hooked every couple of trips. It’s the classic, "Wait a minute… I don’t think cutts run upstream so fast!" Some of the best rainbows I’ve caught in moving water have come to my net on the St. Mary. Some people think they come down from the lake and others argue that they come up from the Kootenay River. I really don’t care where they come from, but the take of a St. Mary rainbow never disappoints me.

There are trout everywhere you look. No fish count has ever been conducted on the river and I wouldn’t even want to guess. If you’re lucky enough to be on the water when a thick hatch of caddis or mayflies occurs then you will probably see the river’s full potential. There is no shortage of trout willing to play a game of tag, with the majority being west-slope cutthroat. The best part about fishing for cutthroat is that they love to take dry-flies. Chernobyl Ants, Royal Coachman’s, a cigarette butt – it’s all the same.

They aren’t very picky and it’s a nice break from the occasion headaches that rainbows will bring. When you’re fishing a dry-fly there is no guessing if you missed a trout or not. No rocks bumping the indicator, no weeds tugging at your streamer – nothing to confuse you. Dry-flies are simple. I could probably name a few dozen must-have patterns for the river but the truth is that you should have some big ones and then a few small ones as well. I guess if I had to pick a few patterns, I would choose a few terrestrials, some classic dry patterns and a couple nymphs just in case fishing became difficult. Sometimes people just tend to take things a little too seriously. You’re not fishing the St. Mary to break any records, as most of the trout fall between 10 and 18 inches. You fish the St. Mary to enjoy a stream with great water and beautiful scenery.

I enjoy fishing tributaries as much as possible. I think it’s because once in a while you get so far off the beaten path that you find yourself believing that you’re the first angler to ever cast into a pool. The truth is probably much different than that, but the truth isn’t for anglers anyway. Above and below the lake there are quite a few tributaries that hold good populations of resident trout. Many of these small creeks can be accessed by hiking up from the river or by road access points. Occasionally you will find that some of these creeks hold a limited number of trout but that the average size is better than the main river.

Every year the St. Mary opens for business on June 15th. Some years the water is still high and muddy at that time, but the last couple years we have seen lower water levels and good fishing right from the start. Stoneflies offer some of the best fishing of the year. These clumsy bugs combine to give the trout one of their largest meals of the year. Other than stoneflies, most anglers overlook another good food source for the trout in the river, sculpins. Generally about 2 to 4 inches long, sculpins are everywhere in the river, and they don’t move very fast. This can lead to some pretty exciting streamer fishing, especially when you’re chasing a large bull trout. In addition, mayflies hatch throughout the summer and into the fall. Flavs, Blue-Winged Olives and Drakes are all a common sight but the cutthroat won’t usually key into only one hatch. I’ve had some great days fishing a big hopper through a hatch of mayflies. One word of advice would be to be prepared, but for the most part, keep it simple.

Fall fishing can really be something special. Probably every trout stream in western Canada shines in the fall. Whenever I think of the fall I am reminded of so many good days working B.W.O.s over trout as they sip the film. I always look for those long slicks or the tailouts of deep pools; this is where you can bank on rising trout. This is one time when I must admit that the trout do get a little picky. Many of them have seen a few different flies and they tend to inspect everything. I go to the emergers when it gets this tough. But the river really never seems to slow down. From spring through fall the fishing is relevantly consistent.

The St. Mary has not always been such a great trout stream. I always enjoy chatting with anglers who have known a stream for many years. I have learned that the St. Mary now is not too different from how it was 50 years ago, and I find that a very comforting thought. But in the 1970s and 1980s, the lower river below Mark Creek was a dumping ground for the town of Kimberly and the local mine. It was almost devoid of life until the mid-1980s when it slowly began its comeback. Today the St. Mary is as strong as ever. The fish are healthy year after year and I’m still surprised every once in a while by a larger trout or two.

Just when you think there aren’t any cutthroat over 22 inches, one pushing 23 inches lands with a heavy thud in your net. Conservation has played an important role on this stream as it has on so many others. Anglers are starting to realize that filling their frying pans will lead to slow days on the water.

With so many different waters to fish, it’s often hard even deciding where to go next. The St. Mary is one of those places that you should make an effort to visit. There aren’t many streams that are just like they used to be.

NOTE: Jeff Mironuck is the editor and publisher of Home Waters, a quarterly fly fishing magazine that we highly recommend to all of our readers. The magazine can be found in most fly shops and many bookstores throughout the Northwest, or you can find them on the web at http://www.homewatersonline.com and order your own subscription.